The keyword for high end watchmaking in the 2010s has probably been ‘sapphire’. Cases, dials and base plates of the movement are commonly made of artificial sapphire, offering a fresh and transparent style as well as showing the excellent craftsmanship of high end watchmaking.

The octagonal case of Bulgari Octo is the most signature feature of the collection. The design is inspired by the motifs adorning the Basilica of Maxentius, referencing the Roman roots of Bulgari. The Octo Tourbillon Sapphire features a 44mm-diameter titanium case with a black Diamond Like Carbon (D.L.C.) treatment and transparent case-back and dial. The Calibre BVL 206 mechanical manual-winding flying tourbillon movement is functionally and aesthetically supported by 11 black DLC-coated bridges adorned with blue bars of ITR2 – a single composite material laden with carbon nanotube particles that is as hard as metal – and SLN, a high-tech luminescent material that absorbs light during the daytime and produces it at night. The one-minute flying tourbillon escapement is located at 6 o’clock on the movement, playing multiple roles including adjusting the balance of the hairspring, eliminating the influence of gravity and displaying the seconds.

The Calibre BVL 206 is wrapped inside various sapphire parts, allowing a full visual appreciation of the movement. It also has a unique time-setting mechanism; when the user presses the crown, a red dot in a tiny aperture will be displayed at 3 o’clock, signalling the time can be set by turning the crown. Pressing the crown again causes the indicator to change to white and turning the crown just winds the movement. The single-barrel Calibre BVL 206 has a power reserve of 64 hours and a power reserve indicator with the same blue lumination is located at the back of the movement.