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Complexation Lies Within
The ultra-thin watches at 2018 SIHH

The 2018 SIHH has officially wrapped. While some of the show pieces are heavily loaded with precious metals, diamonds and other jewels for the wow effect, there are a few that have turned the exact opposite direction and are going for an extra-thin appearance. What is so amazing about these examples are that the barely-there thickness does not limit the level of complexity of these watches, rather, watchmakers seem to be on a mission to challenge the limits as we know them.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
At 6.3 mm, the Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a concept prototype from Audemars Piguet and the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. It is also the thinnest member of the Royal Oak family and its redesigned case is almost 2 mm thinner than the Royal Oak Extra Thin Jumbo. To achieve the new thinness, AP has reduced the three-storey movement into a single layer, combining and re-arranging functions to enhance ergonomy, efficiency and robustness, and at the centre of this patented system is the 2.89 mm central rotor. The timepiece’s 41 mm case is made of 950-platinum, as well as the bezel and bracelets. There is no word from AP on the concept watch’s future development but we can always wish it to become a production model.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin Sunburst Dial
These new watches are the latest variants of the existing Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin. These new colour and material combinations — platinum with blue smoked dial and blue sapphire decorated bezel, 18k pink gold with classic blue dial and steel with new purple dial — are paired with “Tapisserie Evolutive” pattern. The signature “Tapisserie” design is shooting out from the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, injecting an eye-pleasing new element to the watch that highlights the mechanical centre piece. The 8.85 mm model is fitted with the AP Calibre 2924 which can be appreciated from the case back.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar in Rose Gold
This is also a new variation of a current model rather than completely brand new, but the new 18k pink gold material just further pushesthe luxe level. The 8.1 mm case houses the 4.05 mm automatic Calibre 1120 QP/1 and the movement offers days of the week, date, month, leap year and moon phases functions.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Last but not least, it is difficult to write a feature on ultra-thin watches without mentioning the Altiplano Ultimate Concept from Piaget, the current title owner of “world’s thinnest mechanical watch”. With a thickness of just 2 mm and a base plate doubling as a case back, it deserves an individual coverage which you can find here.